Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
